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When thinking of gifts for my family, I often try to make something in my shop. Not only can this save money, but it also tends to mean more to the recipient. This year was no exception.
With a recently purchased lathe, I knew that a rolling pin would be in the works. Having never made one, this is my take on a classic roller style rolling pin design. The handles spin freely from the body of the rolling pin on a HDPE bearing surface attached to stainless steel carriage bolts to prevent rust.
A simple cutting board that matches the rolling pin makes it the perfect gift for anyone that enjoys to cook. Mark and turn a dovetail tennon on each end (only one end is pictured here). This dovetail will allow the rolling pin to be held by a so the pilot holes can be drilled precisely in the center of the rolling pin.
If this hole is drilled even slightly off square you will notice it when using the rolling pin.Once mounted in the nova chuck, drill a hole the size of the minor diameter of the threads being used to tap the hole. If using a 3/8 inch bolt, use a 5/16 drill for this pilot hole.Repeat on each end. I wrote a very detailed instructable on. The tl;dr version is:. Taper the end of the bolt on a bench grinder. Cut flutes in a bolt using files or an angle grinder.
Clean up threads with a nutIn that instructable the head of the bolt was removed. In this application the head is very helpful with threading the rolling pin. Please see that instructable for clearer directions.With the rolling pin still secured in the nova chuck, position the tap in the pilot hole with a socket supporting the tap in the tailstock.
Using the tailstock in this manner will allow you to apply pressure to start the tap but then allow the tap to pull the threads through at the correct feed rate. You will not need to continually apply pressure from the tailstock once the threads start, you will only need to keep the socket in the correct position to hold onto the head of the bolt. If it isn't obvious, do not turn your lathe on for this tapping process. Thread the entire hole by hand, clearing out the chips every 1/2 inch to an inch.Thread two inches into the rolling pin.
Repeat on each end. The slot cut in these bolts is not necessary. This was the first time I had ever done anything like this and didn't know if I would be able to grip the bolts when epoxying in place without a slot. I will talk more about this in step 12.Grip the carriage bolts in the nova chuck with the faceplates removed. Using a metal file, remove any manufacturing marks on the head as well as turn the head completely round. Make sure to grip onto the threads and not the square portion of the carriage bolt. Don't worry about possibly damaging the threads towards the head of the bolt, they will not be used as threads and will only be used as a bearing surface.Not needed unless you are worried about precise adjustment of the carriage bolt when epoxying in place.
Using the tool rest, mark a line through the center and cut a slot using a cutoff wheel in a rotary tool.Using the file, remove the square on the carriage bolt. (not shown)Polish to your liking. Wet sand from 120 grit through 600 switching to. If you'd like a more brushed finish, you can stop at 600 grit or anywhere in the micro-mesh.Repeat with the second bolt. Cut out the handles on the bandsaw and mount them in the nova chuck.Flatten the end of the handle.
This can be done with a forstner bit as show above or by using traditional turning tools. I used a forstner bit because I wanted an exact 7/8 circle (just bigger than the head of the carriage bolt) on the end of the handle.Drill a hole just bigger than the outside diameter of the PEX that will be used in the next step (mine was just under 1/2 inch so I drilled using a 1/2 inch drill bit). Drill completely through the handle.
Since the carriage bolt is what the rolling pin will turn around, I didn't want the threads to eat away at the wood overtime. PEX is made from HDPE which means it's really tough and slippery (perfect for a bearing surface). Cut two lengths of pex as long as your handle. Use sandpaper to rough up the outside of the PEX, this will give more surface area for the epoxy to hold onto.Mix epoxy and apply it only on the inserting end of the PEX (not in the hole before inserting it). As you press the PEX in the hole the epoxy will coat the entire outside of the tube. If you don't get the entire tube in place that is fine, cut off any extra.
Once dry (this can take longer than expected because air can't get to the epoxy, I waited 24 hours) drill out the inside of the PEX slightly larger than the carriage bolt. I drilled this hole using a 25/64 inch drill bit.
Sand and repeat with the other handle.Once finished, cut the tenon of each handle and sand smooth. Mix epoxy and place it in the threads of the rolling pin body. Do not place it on the threads of the carriage bolts. We don't want any epoxy escaping the hole to accidentally glue the handle in place.Place the nylon washer on the carriage bolt to act as a bearing surface between the handle and rolling pin body.Tighten the carriage bolt in place.This was the point where I was originally concerned about being able to adjust the carriage bolt of the rolling pin. We don't want it too tight or it will not spin, we don't want it too loose or it will slide around and make noise.
With the slot in place it was really easy to make this adjustment, but there is this permanent slot visible. I found that the epoxy acts as a lubricant until it starts to set. Because of this, on the second rolling pin I made (shown in the cover image and next step) I didn't cut these slots. I was able to fine tune the bolt using a pair of pliers with duct tape attached to the jaws for padding. This worked better than expected and if I make any in the future this will be how they will all be done.
Since I'm currently still a poor college student, I found an amazing deal on a second hand JET JWL-1220VS. It's a smaller MIDI lathe but it works great for me. It has a couple of dents and dings like what you can see in the third picture of step 6, but it runs great. I would love to have found a great deal on a larger floor model, but I do not have the money or space in my single car garage. I didn't think I would use my lathe as much as I do, but I'm finding some odd and unusual uses for it that I'll be sharing in the next month or two.